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1.Wave off into shallow waters, seabed by the friction effect change steep wave front, trough ice, water points trajectory showed reciprocating flow, but also to the shore into the flow speed usually return rate greater than offshore, the net result of sediment at the bottom to the shore handling, and was the shock waves on the shore with the water current - Riviera Online accumulation.
外海波浪传入近岸浅水区,受到海底的摩擦作用,锋变陡、谷变缓,水质点运动轨迹呈现往复流动,而且向岸进流速度通常大于离岸回流速度,导致底部泥沙净向岸搬运,并被激岸的上冲水流带至海滨线上堆积。收藏指正
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